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[title] => Poznati chef David Skoko: "Naša je riba po kvaliteti u svjetskom vrhu i to svi trebaju znati!"
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Baza svake dobre kuhinje je domaći proizvod. Sve poznate svjetske destinacije na tome grade svoj uspjeh, a Istra s njima hvata korak jer poštuje tradiciju spremanja ribljih jela uz more, ali i onih iz njene unutrašnjosti, kao što je, primjerice, nenadmašna pašticada od boškarina
Obgrlilo more Istru, pa je ne pušta. Sve što ima - dalo joj je. Pa onda, kako je i red, Istra i Istrijani svu tu silnu ljubav i ljepotu već stoljećima daruju drugima. Gostima sa svih strana svijeta. Kojih je u tom kraju Hrvatske uvijek najviše, pa možemo reći da im turizam cvjeta. Možda je tome razlog što su davnih dana Istrijani shvatili kako ta Bogom dana ljepota nije jedino što će strance dovoditi u njihov kraj.
- Geopolitička pozicija nam je jako dobra. Autom smo dostupni svim gostima - veli nam chef David Skoko. Na stranu što je baš on glavni istarski adut na gastronomskoj sceni, nego je i najbolji sugovornik na temu Istre i njezinih turističkih perspektiva kad je autohtona kuhinja u pitanju.
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Objedinio je Skoko čari poluotoka o kojem pričamo, na jednom mjestu pomirio tradiciju i moderno, znanje i tehniku, pa vrijednim radom stvorio od sebe pravi brend. I sad juriša prema cilju – od Istre će s kolegama umjetnicima, pravim čarobnjacima hrane - učiniti gastronomski brend.
- Jako već dugo Istra vodi brigu o gastronomiji. Brine da je orijentirana ka moru i ruralnome dijelu. Zašto? Zato jer moderan putnik traži od destinacije kompletan doživljaj. On želi vidjeti i znati sve, i povijest kraja u koji je došao, čuti glazbu, upoznati se s tradicijom, kušati hranu - veli nam Skoko.
- Zato smo postali regija prepoznatljiva gostima, mjesto gdje znaju kako će dobiti jelo koje je tipično lokalno, iskreno i realno - dodaje.
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Iskustvo koje Istra nudi gostu objedinjuje sve navedeno. Tako, složit ćemo se, u Toscani, primjerice, neće gost tražiti ni sushi, ni ćevapčiće, ni paellu niti burgere, već ono po čemu je ta regija poznata. U Italiji trattorije i opjevani restorani nude svoje, baš svoje, ne tuđe. I to nam nije čudno, to nam je normalno. Zašto onda tako nije i pod našim krovom?
- Prepoznati karakter nekog kraja na način da dobijete izvornost i hrane i ljudi i vina, to je sve, veli nam chef.
- Puno je to posla. Istra je na dobrom putu - složit će se Skoko jer je uspjela promovirati svoj ruralni kraj.
- Učiniti selo bazom gastronomije, to se treba uraditi. U gradu konzumiraš, na selu uzgajaš, da karikiram, ali baza svake dobre kuhinje jest domaći proizvod. Sve poznate svjetske destinacije na tome grade svoj uspjeh. Vi kao putnik baš želite kušati nešto njihovo - kazuje nam ribarev sin.
Malvazija i teran
Promovirati domaći proizvod, a ne uvoz, to bi nam svima trebao biti zadatak. Prezentirati svijetu uzgojen proizvod kao plod vrijednih ruku našeg čovjeka.
- "Fejkanje" dovodi do kraja! Moramo ostati svoji, iskreni, zanimljivi - kaže nam.
A zanimljivo bi bilo učiniti nešto što će nam biti, postati (sanjamo) "trademark", pa veli:
- Rado bih kao ribarev sin ponudio gostu našu plavu ribu. Istina je kako nedovoljno valoriziramo i naš kočarski ulov, a to je sve ono čega imamo. Recimo da na ulicama primorskih gradova, kao nekakav "street food", nudimo frigane inćune, frigane srdelice. To je ono što je naše, to je ono što je iznimno ukusno, friško, domaće - nabraja Skoko, pa se slažemo kako umjesto toga nudimo gostima, ali i domaćem čovjeku, hranu kako je pripremaju drugi jer je to u svijetu trend.
Apsolutni su hit na modenoj gastronomskoj sceni sada "burgeri", a to je urbani, američki stil, nije naš.
- Ono staro neka nam bude novo, igra se chef s riječima.
Pa se vraćamo svim blagoslovima koje nam Istra nudi, čarolijama od koje raste želja, od koje se nakon večere uz čašu istarskoga vina postiže blaženo stanje. Mir, radost, opuštenost. Dobar pjat je onaj na kojem ima dašak tartufa, baš to je, eto, jedno od istarskih blaga.
- Tartuf je zanimljiv i po tome što nam proširuje turističku sezonu - otkriva nam Skoko nešto novo:
- Njegov je "stađun" u jesen i zimu. U Istri nudimo svjetski tartuf: bijeli i kvalitetni crni. Imamo tu sreću da baš kod nas raste. Zbog tartufa gosti dolaze u svako doba - kaže nam.
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Vraćamo se na čašu vina. Čujemo i ovako, pišući, kako zvecka staklo, zamagljeno temperaturom, kako glogoće gusta tekućina, omamljuje mirisom...
- Uvijek je u Istri vinogradarstvo bilo dobro, ali sada je i vinarstvo sve bolje i sve više napreduje - veli naš sugovornik dok pričamo o urodu, vinu koje dozrijeva u amforama, vinu koje je barikirano, koje je preraslo granice onoga što smo i sami zvali "skromnim stolnim vinom" jer postalo je čarolijom. Malvazija je ta o kojoj govorimo. A tek teran...
- Nakon pada Bizanta imali smo deset puta više maslina nego danas - upozorit će Skoko na nešto što je Istru od pamtivijeka činilo prepoznatljivom.
Dakle, s maslinama je baš kao i sa boškarinima. I njih smo bili zanemarili, a onda je Agencija za ruralni razvoj zasukala rukave. I samo da znate – boškarinom nazivamo istarsko govedo, uvriježeno je tako, premda se nekada boškarinom nazivalo tek najljepše grlo u toru.
- Nekada boškarini nisu služili za hranu, već za rad. Meso im nije bilo cijenjeno jer su više vrijedili živi nego kao gulaš - smijemo se.
- Svaki uzgoj mora imati ekonomsko opravdanje, ekonomski smisao - veli nam poznati chef.
Pašticada od boškarina
Tako doznajemo kako meso boškarina nije ni malo nalik "angus beefu", odresku za kojim danas ludi cijeli svijet. Ne sliči mu, drugačije je. Meso je krto, nije toliko prošarano masnoćama, ali...
-...zato ima fantastičan okus kad se dugo kuha! U pašticadi, skuhan kao gulaš, u narescima, boškarin je nenadmašan - ustvrdit će Skoko i reći otvoreno: "Nije savršeno, ali je naše!"
I tu se opet nalazimo na putu prema stvaranju nečeg čime bi se trebali ponositi jer chef veli kako trebamo promovirati ono što je naše, makar i ne bilo najbolje:
- Boškarinovo meso nije super za "stejkove", ali rep, obrazine, salame, su nenadmašne!
Ono što je pak, bez iti malo lažne skromnosti, nenadmašno kod nas, pa i u svjetskim relacijama, jest jadranska riba!
- Naši gosti, pogotovo oni iz "alpe Adria" zone, jako dobro poznaju našu ribu i cijene ju. Kvarnerski škamp, sitna plava riba, kamenice, koje bogatstvo imamo!
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Bogati hranom uistinu jesmo, i vrijedni smo, što god neki među vama mislili. Možemo li onda uistinu od naše destinacije učiniti onu koja će biti jednako znana u Argentini i Europi, Japanu? Hoće li turisti željeti doći na Jadran sa željom da nezaobilazno moraju kušati našu spizu? Hoće. Sigurno.
---
---
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KANDIDATI ZA ADRIANA 2021.
Mali i obiteljski hoteli u Istri
San Canzian Village & Hotel Mužolini*****, Donji 7, 52460 Buje, tel: 052 853 897, e-mail: info@san-canzian.hr
Hotel Villa Letan****, Peroj 450, 52215 Vodnjan, tel: 052 521 006, e-mail: info@hotel-letan.hr
Hotel San Rocco****, Srednja ulica 2, 52474 Brtonigla, tel: 052 725 000, e-mail: info@san-rocco.hr
Hotel Villa Annette****, Raška 24, 52221 Rabac, tel: 052 884 222, e-mail: villa.annette@pu.t-com.hr
Hotel Villa Rosetta****, Crvena uvala 31, 52 475 Savudrija, tel: 052 725 710, e-mail: info@villarosetta.hr
Hotel Mauro****, Obala maršala Tita 15, 52440 Poreč, tel: 052 219 500, e-mail: info@hotelmauro.com
Hotel Vela Vrata****, Šetalište Vladimira Gortana 7, 52420 Buzet, tel: 052 494 750, e-mail:booking@velavrata.net
Hotel La grisa****, La Grisa 23, 52211 Bale, tel: 052 824 501; e-mail: la.grisa@pu.t-com.hr
Adrion Aparthotel****, Puntižela 40, 52 100 Pula, tel: +385 52 330 077, e-mail: adrionaparthotel@gmail.com
Hotel Velanera****, Franje Mošnja 3b, Šišan, 52204 Ližnjan, tel: 052 300 620, e-mail: velanera@velanera.h
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Baza svake dobre kuhinje je domaći proizvod. Sve poznate svjetske destinacije na tome grade svoj uspjeh, a Istra s njima hvata korak jer poštuje tradiciju spremanja ribljih jela uz more, ali i onih iz njene unutrašnjosti, kao što je, primjerice, nenadmašna pašticada od boškarina
Obgrlilo more Istru, pa je ne pušta. Sve što ima - dalo joj je. Pa onda, kako je i red, Istra i Istrijani svu tu silnu ljubav i ljepotu već stoljećima daruju drugima. Gostima sa svih strana svijeta. Kojih je u tom kraju Hrvatske uvijek najviše, pa možemo reći da im turizam cvjeta. Možda je tome razlog što su davnih dana Istrijani shvatili kako ta Bogom dana ljepota nije jedino što će strance dovoditi u njihov kraj.
- Geopolitička pozicija nam je jako dobra. Autom smo dostupni svim gostima - veli nam chef David Skoko. Na stranu što je baš on glavni istarski adut na gastronomskoj sceni, nego je i najbolji sugovornik na temu Istre i njezinih turističkih perspektiva kad je autohtona kuhinja u pitanju.
---
---
Objedinio je Skoko čari poluotoka o kojem pričamo, na jednom mjestu pomirio tradiciju i moderno, znanje i tehniku, pa vrijednim radom stvorio od sebe pravi brend. I sad juriša prema cilju – od Istre će s kolegama umjetnicima, pravim čarobnjacima hrane - učiniti gastronomski brend.
- Jako već dugo Istra vodi brigu o gastronomiji. Brine da je orijentirana ka moru i ruralnome dijelu. Zašto? Zato jer moderan putnik traži od destinacije kompletan doživljaj. On želi vidjeti i znati sve, i povijest kraja u koji je došao, čuti glazbu, upoznati se s tradicijom, kušati hranu - veli nam Skoko.
- Zato smo postali regija prepoznatljiva gostima, mjesto gdje znaju kako će dobiti jelo koje je tipično lokalno, iskreno i realno - dodaje.
---
---
Iskustvo koje Istra nudi gostu objedinjuje sve navedeno. Tako, složit ćemo se, u Toscani, primjerice, neće gost tražiti ni sushi, ni ćevapčiće, ni paellu niti burgere, već ono po čemu je ta regija poznata. U Italiji trattorije i opjevani restorani nude svoje, baš svoje, ne tuđe. I to nam nije čudno, to nam je normalno. Zašto onda tako nije i pod našim krovom?
- Prepoznati karakter nekog kraja na način da dobijete izvornost i hrane i ljudi i vina, to je sve, veli nam chef.
- Puno je to posla. Istra je na dobrom putu - složit će se Skoko jer je uspjela promovirati svoj ruralni kraj.
- Učiniti selo bazom gastronomije, to se treba uraditi. U gradu konzumiraš, na selu uzgajaš, da karikiram, ali baza svake dobre kuhinje jest domaći proizvod. Sve poznate svjetske destinacije na tome grade svoj uspjeh. Vi kao putnik baš želite kušati nešto njihovo - kazuje nam ribarev sin.
Malvazija i teran
Promovirati domaći proizvod, a ne uvoz, to bi nam svima trebao biti zadatak. Prezentirati svijetu uzgojen proizvod kao plod vrijednih ruku našeg čovjeka.
- "Fejkanje" dovodi do kraja! Moramo ostati svoji, iskreni, zanimljivi - kaže nam.
A zanimljivo bi bilo učiniti nešto što će nam biti, postati (sanjamo) "trademark", pa veli:
- Rado bih kao ribarev sin ponudio gostu našu plavu ribu. Istina je kako nedovoljno valoriziramo i naš kočarski ulov, a to je sve ono čega imamo. Recimo da na ulicama primorskih gradova, kao nekakav "street food", nudimo frigane inćune, frigane srdelice. To je ono što je naše, to je ono što je iznimno ukusno, friško, domaće - nabraja Skoko, pa se slažemo kako umjesto toga nudimo gostima, ali i domaćem čovjeku, hranu kako je pripremaju drugi jer je to u svijetu trend.
Apsolutni su hit na modenoj gastronomskoj sceni sada "burgeri", a to je urbani, američki stil, nije naš.
- Ono staro neka nam bude novo, igra se chef s riječima.
Pa se vraćamo svim blagoslovima koje nam Istra nudi, čarolijama od koje raste želja, od koje se nakon večere uz čašu istarskoga vina postiže blaženo stanje. Mir, radost, opuštenost. Dobar pjat je onaj na kojem ima dašak tartufa, baš to je, eto, jedno od istarskih blaga.
- Tartuf je zanimljiv i po tome što nam proširuje turističku sezonu - otkriva nam Skoko nešto novo:
- Njegov je "stađun" u jesen i zimu. U Istri nudimo svjetski tartuf: bijeli i kvalitetni crni. Imamo tu sreću da baš kod nas raste. Zbog tartufa gosti dolaze u svako doba - kaže nam.
---
---
Vraćamo se na čašu vina. Čujemo i ovako, pišući, kako zvecka staklo, zamagljeno temperaturom, kako glogoće gusta tekućina, omamljuje mirisom...
- Uvijek je u Istri vinogradarstvo bilo dobro, ali sada je i vinarstvo sve bolje i sve više napreduje - veli naš sugovornik dok pričamo o urodu, vinu koje dozrijeva u amforama, vinu koje je barikirano, koje je preraslo granice onoga što smo i sami zvali "skromnim stolnim vinom" jer postalo je čarolijom. Malvazija je ta o kojoj govorimo. A tek teran...
- Nakon pada Bizanta imali smo deset puta više maslina nego danas - upozorit će Skoko na nešto što je Istru od pamtivijeka činilo prepoznatljivom.
Dakle, s maslinama je baš kao i sa boškarinima. I njih smo bili zanemarili, a onda je Agencija za ruralni razvoj zasukala rukave. I samo da znate – boškarinom nazivamo istarsko govedo, uvriježeno je tako, premda se nekada boškarinom nazivalo tek najljepše grlo u toru.
- Nekada boškarini nisu služili za hranu, već za rad. Meso im nije bilo cijenjeno jer su više vrijedili živi nego kao gulaš - smijemo se.
- Svaki uzgoj mora imati ekonomsko opravdanje, ekonomski smisao - veli nam poznati chef.
Pašticada od boškarina
Tako doznajemo kako meso boškarina nije ni malo nalik "angus beefu", odresku za kojim danas ludi cijeli svijet. Ne sliči mu, drugačije je. Meso je krto, nije toliko prošarano masnoćama, ali...
-...zato ima fantastičan okus kad se dugo kuha! U pašticadi, skuhan kao gulaš, u narescima, boškarin je nenadmašan - ustvrdit će Skoko i reći otvoreno: "Nije savršeno, ali je naše!"
I tu se opet nalazimo na putu prema stvaranju nečeg čime bi se trebali ponositi jer chef veli kako trebamo promovirati ono što je naše, makar i ne bilo najbolje:
- Boškarinovo meso nije super za "stejkove", ali rep, obrazine, salame, su nenadmašne!
Ono što je pak, bez iti malo lažne skromnosti, nenadmašno kod nas, pa i u svjetskim relacijama, jest jadranska riba!
- Naši gosti, pogotovo oni iz "alpe Adria" zone, jako dobro poznaju našu ribu i cijene ju. Kvarnerski škamp, sitna plava riba, kamenice, koje bogatstvo imamo!
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Bogati hranom uistinu jesmo, i vrijedni smo, što god neki među vama mislili. Možemo li onda uistinu od naše destinacije učiniti onu koja će biti jednako znana u Argentini i Europi, Japanu? Hoće li turisti željeti doći na Jadran sa željom da nezaobilazno moraju kušati našu spizu? Hoće. Sigurno.
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KANDIDATI ZA ADRIANA 2021.
Mali i obiteljski hoteli u Istri
San Canzian Village & Hotel Mužolini*****, Donji 7, 52460 Buje, tel: 052 853 897, e-mail: info@san-canzian.hr
Hotel Villa Letan****, Peroj 450, 52215 Vodnjan, tel: 052 521 006, e-mail: info@hotel-letan.hr
Hotel San Rocco****, Srednja ulica 2, 52474 Brtonigla, tel: 052 725 000, e-mail: info@san-rocco.hr
Hotel Villa Annette****, Raška 24, 52221 Rabac, tel: 052 884 222, e-mail: villa.annette@pu.t-com.hr
Hotel Villa Rosetta****, Crvena uvala 31, 52 475 Savudrija, tel: 052 725 710, e-mail: info@villarosetta.hr
Hotel Mauro****, Obala maršala Tita 15, 52440 Poreč, tel: 052 219 500, e-mail: info@hotelmauro.com
Hotel Vela Vrata****, Šetalište Vladimira Gortana 7, 52420 Buzet, tel: 052 494 750, e-mail:booking@velavrata.net
Hotel La grisa****, La Grisa 23, 52211 Bale, tel: 052 824 501; e-mail: la.grisa@pu.t-com.hr
Adrion Aparthotel****, Puntižela 40, 52 100 Pula, tel: +385 52 330 077, e-mail: adrionaparthotel@gmail.com
Hotel Velanera****, Franje Mošnja 3b, Šišan, 52204 Ližnjan, tel: 052 300 620, e-mail: velanera@velanera.h
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11. svibanj 2024 18:37
