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Nekoliko tjedana nakon što ju je u dobi od 15 godina uočio modni agent, Karoline Bjornelykke nosila je u Parizu reviju Chanela, piše The Times.

Ubrzo su stigli i poslovi za druge modne kuće, uključujući Armani i Louis Vuitton, a crvenokosa je norveška manekenka predstavljena u Vogueu Japan i u dokumentarcu o zvijezdama u usponu u modnoj industriji.

Sada je ta 25-godišnjakinja ponovno došla na naslovnice nakon što je na TikToku otkrila da vitkiji modeli često nose tzv. 'fat suits' ('debela odijela', prev. - podstavljena odijela u kojima modeli izgledaju deblje) kako bi osigurali posao plus size modela. Unatoč tome što nosi veličinu 10-12, Bjornelykke kaže da su je tijekom godina brendovi tražili da koristi to posebno odijelo ili podstavu kako bi mogla nositi i veličine od XL do 5XL.

'Ako imaš oči, vidiš da nisam te veličine. Dakle, kako da riješimo ovaj problem? Pa, u osnovi moram donijeti na posao nešto što se zove podstava, a što je zapravo debelo odijelo rastavljeno na više komada.'

Tvrtke radije zapošljavaju mršave žene u odnosu na stvarne modele malo izraženijih oblina, rekla je, 'jer žele da vrat i lice izgledaju stvarno vitko i definirano, a što stvara nemoguće standarde ljepote.'

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Odjeća većih veličina može modnim markama donijeti mnogo novca. Predviđa se da će globalna industrija vrijedna 480 milijardi dolara u 2019. godini dosegnuti 696,71 milijardu dolara do 2027., prema izvješću Allied Market Researcha.

Bjornelykke i dalje radi u modi, ali joj je sad primarna obaveza studij u Oslu. Rekla je da je imala iskustva s korištenjem podstava i debelih odijela tijekom rada u SAD-u i Njemačkoj, ali tvrdi da se 'to događa i u Engleskoj'.

'To se često koristi ako je model manji od očekivanog jer klijent ne zna uvijek veličinu modela. Modna industrija je lica oštrih crta odredila kao veliki standard ljepote, pa mislim da traže mršava lica oštrih crta čak i kada su na modelima većih veličina.'

Video, koji je pregledan više od 300.000 puta, izazvao je oštre kritike modne industrije.

'Modna industrija stvarno mrzi modele većih veličina', napisala je jedna komentatorica, dok je druga dodala: 'Zato i imam komplekse kad je u pitanju moj oblik lica.'

No neki su okrivili i same modele, tvrdeći da su svjesno sudjelovali u obmani javnosti. Bjornelykke je na to odgovorila da modeli ne bi trebali biti u fokusu kritika.

'Mislim da nije u redu kriviti modele. Ako jedna manekenka odbije posao, prihvatit će ga druga poput nje. Model također ne zna hoće li se podstava koristiti ili ne prije nego što stigne na snimanje', rekla je.

'Sada više ne radim te reklame jer mislim da to nije u redu, a ni novac mi ne treba baš očajnički. Prava moć je kod potrošača. Željela sam da plus-size žene budu svjesne toga kada kupuju kako bi mogle napraviti bolji izbor i ne osjećati se loše kada vide ove nemoguće standarde ljepote', kazala je.

'Za ovakvo su stanje odgovorni samo brendovi, a ne modeli i ne agencije za modele. Modeli definitivno nisu na vrhu piramide moći u modnoj industriji.'

Bjornelykke nije prva koja je progovorila o ovoj praksi. Godine 2014. Katie Green, engleski model, progovorila je za Daily Mail o svom radu s podstavom, rekavši da je nosila odjeću veće veličine, iako sama nosi broj 10-12.

'Ne smeta mi nositi podstavu. Samo želim biti zdrava, a inače nosim manje veličine.'

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Nekoliko tjedana nakon što ju je u dobi od 15 godina uočio modni agent, Karoline Bjornelykke nosila je u Parizu reviju Chanela, piše The Times.

Ubrzo su stigli i poslovi za druge modne kuće, uključujući Armani i Louis Vuitton, a crvenokosa je norveška manekenka predstavljena u Vogueu Japan i u dokumentarcu o zvijezdama u usponu u modnoj industriji.

Sada je ta 25-godišnjakinja ponovno došla na naslovnice nakon što je na TikToku otkrila da vitkiji modeli često nose tzv. 'fat suits' ('debela odijela', prev. - podstavljena odijela u kojima modeli izgledaju deblje) kako bi osigurali posao plus size modela. Unatoč tome što nosi veličinu 10-12, Bjornelykke kaže da su je tijekom godina brendovi tražili da koristi to posebno odijelo ili podstavu kako bi mogla nositi i veličine od XL do 5XL.

'Ako imaš oči, vidiš da nisam te veličine. Dakle, kako da riješimo ovaj problem? Pa, u osnovi moram donijeti na posao nešto što se zove podstava, a što je zapravo debelo odijelo rastavljeno na više komada.'

Tvrtke radije zapošljavaju mršave žene u odnosu na stvarne modele malo izraženijih oblina, rekla je, 'jer žele da vrat i lice izgledaju stvarno vitko i definirano, a što stvara nemoguće standarde ljepote.'

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Odjeća većih veličina može modnim markama donijeti mnogo novca. Predviđa se da će globalna industrija vrijedna 480 milijardi dolara u 2019. godini dosegnuti 696,71 milijardu dolara do 2027., prema izvješću Allied Market Researcha.

Bjornelykke i dalje radi u modi, ali joj je sad primarna obaveza studij u Oslu. Rekla je da je imala iskustva s korištenjem podstava i debelih odijela tijekom rada u SAD-u i Njemačkoj, ali tvrdi da se 'to događa i u Engleskoj'.

'To se često koristi ako je model manji od očekivanog jer klijent ne zna uvijek veličinu modela. Modna industrija je lica oštrih crta odredila kao veliki standard ljepote, pa mislim da traže mršava lica oštrih crta čak i kada su na modelima većih veličina.'

Video, koji je pregledan više od 300.000 puta, izazvao je oštre kritike modne industrije.

'Modna industrija stvarno mrzi modele većih veličina', napisala je jedna komentatorica, dok je druga dodala: 'Zato i imam komplekse kad je u pitanju moj oblik lica.'

No neki su okrivili i same modele, tvrdeći da su svjesno sudjelovali u obmani javnosti. Bjornelykke je na to odgovorila da modeli ne bi trebali biti u fokusu kritika.

'Mislim da nije u redu kriviti modele. Ako jedna manekenka odbije posao, prihvatit će ga druga poput nje. Model također ne zna hoće li se podstava koristiti ili ne prije nego što stigne na snimanje', rekla je.

'Sada više ne radim te reklame jer mislim da to nije u redu, a ni novac mi ne treba baš očajnički. Prava moć je kod potrošača. Željela sam da plus-size žene budu svjesne toga kada kupuju kako bi mogle napraviti bolji izbor i ne osjećati se loše kada vide ove nemoguće standarde ljepote', kazala je.

'Za ovakvo su stanje odgovorni samo brendovi, a ne modeli i ne agencije za modele. Modeli definitivno nisu na vrhu piramide moći u modnoj industriji.'

Bjornelykke nije prva koja je progovorila o ovoj praksi. Godine 2014. Katie Green, engleski model, progovorila je za Daily Mail o svom radu s podstavom, rekavši da je nosila odjeću veće veličine, iako sama nosi broj 10-12.

'Ne smeta mi nositi podstavu. Samo želim biti zdrava, a inače nosim manje veličine.'

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Tiktok
Tiktok
Karoline Bjornelykke
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ŽivotNEMOGUĆI STANDARDI

Znate li zašto su u modnoj industriji mršavi modeli često angažirani za prezentaciju puno većih brojeva odjeće i kako to rade?

Piše M.P.
31. prosinca 2021. - 23:18
Karoline Bjornelykke
PREMIUM
Karoline BjornelykkeTiktok

Nekoliko tjedana nakon što ju je u dobi od 15 godina uočio modni agent, Karoline Bjornelykke nosila je u Parizu reviju Chanela, piše The Times.

Ubrzo su stigli i poslovi za druge modne kuće, uključujući Armani i Louis Vuitton, a crvenokosa je norveška manekenka predstavljena u Vogueu Japan i u dokumentarcu o zvijezdama u usponu u modnoj industriji.

Sada je ta 25-godišnjakinja ponovno došla na naslovnice nakon što je na TikToku otkrila da vitkiji modeli često nose tzv. 'fat suits' ('debela odijela', prev. - podstavljena odijela u kojima modeli izgledaju deblje) kako bi osigurali posao plus size modela. Unatoč tome što nosi veličinu 10-12, Bjornelykke kaže da su je tijekom godina brendovi tražili da koristi to posebno odijelo ili podstavu kako bi mogla nositi i veličine od XL do 5...

#MODNA INDUSTRIJA#MRŠAVE MANEKENKE
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12. svibanj 2024 21:37