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[title] => Haljine zbog kojih nam još uvijek zastaje dah: kostimografkinja Sirovih strasti ispričala sve o odjeći koju je Sharon Stone nosila u kultnom filmu
[alias] => haljine-zbog-kojih-nam-jos-uvijek-zastaje-dah-kostimografkinja-sirovih-strasti-ispricala-sve-o-odjeci-koju-je-sharon-stone-nosila-u-kultnom-filmu
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Film je koji je zaslužan za tisuće pomahnitalih pritiskanja gumba za pauzu i odgledavanja scene ispitivanja u slow motionu te prometnuo malu bijelu haljinu u sastavni dio garderobe svake wannabe femme fatale gotovo 30 godina od kad je stigao u kiina još nam je fascinantan i zanimljiv, a zbog njega neki još uvijek izrazito zaziru od šiljka za led. Riječ je, naravno, o Sirovim strastima, filmu Paula Verhoevena koji je u tom trenu pomalo pokisloj karijeri Sharon Stone došao kao elektrošok koji ju je lansirao u orbitu A zvijezda.
Ellen Mirojnick, kostimogfafkinja zaslužna za odjeću koju je Sharon nosila u filmu, popričala je s ekipom časopisa Dazed i otkrila kako je izbor garderobe pomogao da Stone postane ono što je postala nakon kultne scene u policijskoj postaji.
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“Željeli smo prikazati Catherine kao vrlo sofisticiranu i bogatu ženu, pa smo se koristili paletom boja nadahnutom njezinim hičkokovskim izgledom ledene plavuše. Nije bilo puno toplih boja i sve su nijanse birane tako da naglase njen ten, oči i kosu. Boje se kreću od kremasto bijele, preko bež do tamnoplavih tonova i sive s primjesom lavande (na antilop jakni koju nosi u Nickovoj kući) te bronce za disko haljinu. Koristili smo puno Hermèsovih komada, a Barry Kieselstein-Cord dizajnirao je nakit - težak, upečatljiv i skulpturalan - savršen za Catherine" rekla je Mirnojick.
Izbor kostima je, primijetila je kostimografkinja, prilično diktiralo ono što se događalo u pojedinom prizoru i načinom snimanja. Za "onu" bijelu haljinu, zbog toga što je scena snimana steadicamom, Sharon se morala presvući iz prethodnog kostima u kojem je bila, navući haljinu, zgrabiti kaput i izaći kroz vrata, sve u jednom glatkom pokretu i bez prekida u snimanju.
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"Sharon je željela haljinu u kojoj će u sobi za ispitivanje moći sjesti na sjedalicu na način na koji bi to napravio muškarac - ispruživši ruke i slobodno prekriživši noge. Takve su specifične potrebe diktirale kroj haljine. Sjećam se kako sam je skicirala na komad salvete i tada mi je sinulo ‘Mislim da bi trebala biti bijela!’, a Paul je rekao: ‘OK’. Shvatili smo da će djelovati dovoljno hladno u sobi za ispitivanje, a dovoljno toplo u kućnom okruženju. Od tada smo nastavili raditi bijele kostime za Sharon. Budući da je njezin lik bio toliko nepredvidljiv, ova je paleta bila savršeno platno za nju da pokaže poantu svake scene" ispričala je Ellen Mirojnick.
Naravno, spomenuta je i scena zbog koje su pukle mnoge videovrpce.
"Znala sam što će se dogoditi, sve je to bilo po scenariju i znala sam da će ono što će se dogoditi izazvati snažne reakcije gledatelja, čak i bijes. Ali da će tav scena postići kultni status i da će se o njoj pričati i 30 godina nakon što je snimljena? To nisam mogla zamisliti".
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Priznala je da je disco haljina nadahnuta jednim drugim filmskim kostimom.
“Nadahnuta je crnom šljokičastom haljinom bez leđa koju je Julie Christie nosila u filmu Shampoo. Obje su napravljene od jerseya, ručno našivenim perlicama koje su efektno reflektirale svjetlo. Sharonina je bila malo više 'disco', a to što je bila otvorenih leđa značilo je da bi Michael Douglas mogao jednim pokretom uvući ruku u haljinu, a da to ne izgleda vulgarno - to bi mogao biti vrlo senzualan potez. Također je trebala biti tako krojena da se vrlo lako može skinuti u ljubavnoj sceni te da bude dovoljno lagana i tanka da Sharon i Michael s njom učine ono što su učinili".
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Film je koji je zaslužan za tisuće pomahnitalih pritiskanja gumba za pauzu i odgledavanja scene ispitivanja u slow motionu te prometnuo malu bijelu haljinu u sastavni dio garderobe svake wannabe femme fatale gotovo 30 godina od kad je stigao u kiina još nam je fascinantan i zanimljiv, a zbog njega neki još uvijek izrazito zaziru od šiljka za led. Riječ je, naravno, o Sirovim strastima, filmu Paula Verhoevena koji je u tom trenu pomalo pokisloj karijeri Sharon Stone došao kao elektrošok koji ju je lansirao u orbitu A zvijezda.
Ellen Mirojnick, kostimogfafkinja zaslužna za odjeću koju je Sharon nosila u filmu, popričala je s ekipom časopisa Dazed i otkrila kako je izbor garderobe pomogao da Stone postane ono što je postala nakon kultne scene u policijskoj postaji.
---
---
“Željeli smo prikazati Catherine kao vrlo sofisticiranu i bogatu ženu, pa smo se koristili paletom boja nadahnutom njezinim hičkokovskim izgledom ledene plavuše. Nije bilo puno toplih boja i sve su nijanse birane tako da naglase njen ten, oči i kosu. Boje se kreću od kremasto bijele, preko bež do tamnoplavih tonova i sive s primjesom lavande (na antilop jakni koju nosi u Nickovoj kući) te bronce za disko haljinu. Koristili smo puno Hermèsovih komada, a Barry Kieselstein-Cord dizajnirao je nakit - težak, upečatljiv i skulpturalan - savršen za Catherine" rekla je Mirnojick.
Izbor kostima je, primijetila je kostimografkinja, prilično diktiralo ono što se događalo u pojedinom prizoru i načinom snimanja. Za "onu" bijelu haljinu, zbog toga što je scena snimana steadicamom, Sharon se morala presvući iz prethodnog kostima u kojem je bila, navući haljinu, zgrabiti kaput i izaći kroz vrata, sve u jednom glatkom pokretu i bez prekida u snimanju.
---
---
"Sharon je željela haljinu u kojoj će u sobi za ispitivanje moći sjesti na sjedalicu na način na koji bi to napravio muškarac - ispruživši ruke i slobodno prekriživši noge. Takve su specifične potrebe diktirale kroj haljine. Sjećam se kako sam je skicirala na komad salvete i tada mi je sinulo ‘Mislim da bi trebala biti bijela!’, a Paul je rekao: ‘OK’. Shvatili smo da će djelovati dovoljno hladno u sobi za ispitivanje, a dovoljno toplo u kućnom okruženju. Od tada smo nastavili raditi bijele kostime za Sharon. Budući da je njezin lik bio toliko nepredvidljiv, ova je paleta bila savršeno platno za nju da pokaže poantu svake scene" ispričala je Ellen Mirojnick.
Naravno, spomenuta je i scena zbog koje su pukle mnoge videovrpce.
"Znala sam što će se dogoditi, sve je to bilo po scenariju i znala sam da će ono što će se dogoditi izazvati snažne reakcije gledatelja, čak i bijes. Ali da će tav scena postići kultni status i da će se o njoj pričati i 30 godina nakon što je snimljena? To nisam mogla zamisliti".
---
---
Priznala je da je disco haljina nadahnuta jednim drugim filmskim kostimom.
“Nadahnuta je crnom šljokičastom haljinom bez leđa koju je Julie Christie nosila u filmu Shampoo. Obje su napravljene od jerseya, ručno našivenim perlicama koje su efektno reflektirale svjetlo. Sharonina je bila malo više 'disco', a to što je bila otvorenih leđa značilo je da bi Michael Douglas mogao jednim pokretom uvući ruku u haljinu, a da to ne izgleda vulgarno - to bi mogao biti vrlo senzualan potez. Također je trebala biti tako krojena da se vrlo lako može skinuti u ljubavnoj sceni te da bude dovoljno lagana i tanka da Sharon i Michael s njom učine ono što su učinili".
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14. svibanj 2024 08:22
