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[title] => Splićanin Ivan dao je otkaz i počeo peći ludilo pizze, a tek da mu vidite sirnice... Evo njegove priče, imamo i recept
[alias] => splicanin-ivan-dao-je-otkaz-i-poceo-peci-ludilo-pizze-a-tek-da-mu-vidite-sirnice-evo-njegove-price-imamo-i-recept
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Splićani su skloni grintanju na temu pustih fast food objekata u centru grada, no jedan lokal tog tipa ipak bi im mogao itekako dobro sjesti, a sve zahvaljujući dobroj dozi nostalgije i majstorski izrađenom sourdough tijestu, odnosno tijestu koje se dugo i polako diže pa je u konačnici puno probavljivije. A to su starome svitu koji rado žuga poprilično bitne stavke.
Šalu na stranu, ovo je priča baš po našem guštu i zato nam nemojte zamjeriti što se malo zafrkavamo. Po guštu nam je jer se vrti oko dobre spize i oko jednog mladog Splićanina koji je odlučio pozdraviti se s korporativnim svijetom i otvoriti butigicu u kojoj se peku sasvim posebne pizze, a povremeno i vrlo posebni pekarski proizvodi poput doissanta, spoja krafne i kroasana koji je oduševio posjetitelje u vrijeme karnevala te vrlo posebne sirnice, koje su im upravo u ponudi. Ne brinite, pitali smo ga recept.
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Ivan Marin, jer to mu je ime, otkrio nam je kako je došao na ideju otvoriti The Square Pizza Society, simpatičan objekt s pizzama koje neodoljivo podsjećaju na one što ih neki nazivaju "bakinim pizzama", a riječ je o pizzama kakve su nam nekoć pekle bake - u pravokutnim roštijerama, s debelim tijestom. Samo, ove su, kako smo već spomenuli, od sourdough tijesta pa bi ih možda bilo bolje nazvati prabakinim pizzama...
Kako nam priča Ivan, nakon 13 godina rada u marketingu kao brand manager i direktor marketinga za neke od najpoznatijih svjetskih brendova pića, malo ga je štufala ta priča pa je odlučio krenuti u neku svoju, a kako obožava kuhati i zadnjih se osam godina amaterski bavi kruhom od kiselog tijesta, sasvim je logično da je novi put pronašao u gastronomiji i tako je nastao The Square Pizza Society. Malo ga bockamo pitanjem kako to da se u jeku ere napolitanskih pizza odlučio ponuditi debeljuškaste, bakine pizze, a Ivan nam uzvraća da je njihova pizza zapravo kombinacija različitih utjecaja i načina pripreme.
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- Supruga i ja smo veliki ljubitelji pizze pa nam je obavezni dio svakog zajedničkog putovanja bio isprobavanje najbolje pizze u mjestu koje smo posjetili. Nakon što smo skupili inspiraciju, uzeli ono što nam se najviše svidjelo od različitih stilova. Naša pizza najsličnija je Detroit style pizzi, jer ima deblje tijesto i sir joj prekriva cijelu površinu pa se stvara jako ukusan zapečeni rub, ali je radimo sa sourdough tijestom tako da je puno zdravija i ukusnija. Karakteristike tog stila koje nam se nisu svidjele, kao na primjer pravilo da umak od rajčice ide na vrh gomile sastojaka, nismo uvažili pa nam je po tom pitanju bliža klasična talijanska pizza sa sastojcima poput pršuta San Daniele ili sireva poput Pecorina i Stracciatelle - precizan je Ivan Marin.
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Pitamo ga zašto mu se sviđa baš kiselo tijesto i priprema li ga i kod kuće, na što nam odgovara da ga je sourdough zaintrigirao okusom i teksturom koje su kod pravilno fermentiranog tijesta neusporedivo bolji pa je u tu tematiku ušao dublje, kroz brojne tečajeve i istraživanje u kućnoj radinosti.
- Negdje sam pročitao da je budućnost kruha u njegovoj prošlosti i mislim da je to ključna poruka. Nekada se kruh radio od samo tri sastojka: brašna, vode i soli, a svakako bi spomenuo i vrijeme kao ključni sastojak. Ako danas pogledate deklaraciju industrijskog kruha pronaći ćete i do trideset sastojaka. Zbog industrijske proizvodnje kojoj je cilj u što manje vremena proizvesti što više proizvoda, u tijesto su dodaju razni aditivi kako bi se regulirao proces te na kraju imamo kruh koji je nutritivno bezvrijedan, ako ne i štetan.
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Najmanji je problem u pekarskom kvascu s kojim se također može napraviti jako dobar kruh ili pizza ako tijesto pravilno i dovoljno dugo odleži na hladnoj fermentaciji. Ljudi danas imaju problem jer se zbog uštede vremena u tijesto dodaje previše kvasca kako bi se proces ubrzao i tijesto se zapravo samo umjetno digne umjesto da pravilno fermentira. Time dobijemo tijesto koje nam teško padne i loše je probavljivo - objašnjava naš sugovornik pa ga pitamo kako uspješno napraviti sourdough pizzu.
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- Najbolji savjet koji sam dobio kada sam počeo peći je da odaberem jedan recept i napravim taj isti recept barem desetak puta. Jedino tako možete izučiti sam proces, kako tijesto izgleda i kako se ponaša u kojoj fazi, osjetiti ga pod prstima i stvarno razumjeti - savjetuje meštar za kiselo tijesto, a mi priču s pizze i kruha skrećemo na malo slađe staze pa ga pitamo o sourdough sirnicama.
---
---
- Sirnice radimo po starom obiteljskom receptu koji dolazi još od moje prabake i prenosi se sa generacije na generaciju. Posebnost ovog recepta je što sirnice malo jače zarežemo i premažemo šatoom koji napravimo od žumanjaka, šećera i prošeka zbog čega budu malo niže, ali jako sočne i aromatične. Nekako dajemo prednost okusu ispred estetike. Radi se o naoko jednostavnom slatkom kruhu, ali postupak izrade baš i nije jednostavan jer zahtjeva vremena. Što je više puta zamijesite, bit će bolja.
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Koristimo samo najkvalitetnije sastojke: domaća jaja, puno maslaca, masti, ruma i Maraschina, burbon vanilin šećera te sok i koricu bioloških limuna i naranče za aromu. Sirnica voli masnoću, maslac i mast joj daju sočnost i produžuju njenu svježinu. Tijesto je potrebno duže mijesiti kako bi se dobro razvio gluten, a u tome će vam od velike pomoći biti mikser. Peče se na 170 stupnjeva i ne smije izvana previše potamniti. Ako za vrijeme pečenja počne previše hvatati boju lagano je prekrijte aluminijskom folijom - upućuje nas simpatični Splićanin i počinje diktirati recept...
---
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Sourdough sirnice
Sastojci (za tri sirnice od otprilike 400 g)
Kvas
40 g svježeg kvasca
1 žlica šećera
1 žlica brašna
100 ml mlakog mlijeka
Tijesto
500 g brašna za dizana tijesta
125 g maslaca
1 žlica svinjske masti
150 g šećera
2 bourbon vanilin šećera
1 žličica soli
4 žumanjka
1 cijelo jaje
korica 1 neprskanog limuna
korica 1 neprskane naranče
50 ml soka od naranče
2 velike žlice ruma
2 velike žlice maraschina
Šato
2 žumanjka
2 žlice šećera
2 žlice prošeka
Dodatno
granulirani šećer ili šećer u kocki za posipanje
Priprema:
Pomiješajte sastojke za kvas, mlijeko neka bude mlako. Ostavite ga da se diže na toplom mjestu dok se dobro ne zapjeni.
U zdjelu miksera stavite sve sastojke za tijesto osim maslaca i masti, dodajte uzdigli kvas pa miješajte spiralnim nastavkom za tijesto, najprije lagano samo da se poveže, zatim par minuta na većoj brzini dok se ne počne odvajati od rubova posude. Dodajte mast i nastavite miješati dok se ne sjedini. Polako dodajte maslac narezan na manje komadiće i mješajte dok se tijesto u potpunosti ne sjedini i počne odvajati od posude. Mora biti elastično, sjajno i ne previše ljepljivo.
Prebacite tijesto na radnu plohu i još malo mijesite rukama pa prekrijte posudom i ostavite petnaestak minuta da odmori. Još jednom premijesite i ostavite otprilike pola sata u pokrivenoj posudi na sobnoj temperaturi pa stavite u hladnjak na najmanje šest sati, idealno preko noći.
Izvadite tijesto iz hladnjaka i prebacite ga na radnu površinu te ga podijelite na tri jednaka dijela i oblikujte u kugle. Stavite ih na pleh na kojem ćete ih peći te ostavite na sobnoj temperaturi dok ne narastu za otprilike polovicu volumena.
Dok se sirnice dižu pripremite šato. dobro istucite žumanjke i šećer pjenjačom ili mikserom pa dodajte prošek i opet dobro promiješajte.
Zarežite sirnice škarama na tri dijela i u nastali procjep ulijte šatoa te cijelu sirnicu premažite šatoom. Pospite granuliranim šećerom ili kockama šećera koje ste prethodno usitnili na manje komadiće.
Pecite otprilike 35 minuta i provjerite drvenim štapićem ili čačkalicom jesu li gotove.
---
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title=Splićanin Ivan dao je otkaz i počeo peći ludilo pizze, a tek da mu vidite sirnice... Evo njegove priče, imamo i recept
page_title=Splićanin Ivan dao je otkaz i počeo peći ludilo pizze, a tek da mu vidite sirnice... Evo njegove priče, imamo i recept
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Splićani su skloni grintanju na temu pustih fast food objekata u centru grada, no jedan lokal tog tipa ipak bi im mogao itekako dobro sjesti, a sve zahvaljujući dobroj dozi nostalgije i majstorski izrađenom sourdough tijestu, odnosno tijestu koje se dugo i polako diže pa je u konačnici puno probavljivije. A to su starome svitu koji rado žuga poprilično bitne stavke.
Šalu na stranu, ovo je priča baš po našem guštu i zato nam nemojte zamjeriti što se malo zafrkavamo. Po guštu nam je jer se vrti oko dobre spize i oko jednog mladog Splićanina koji je odlučio pozdraviti se s korporativnim svijetom i otvoriti butigicu u kojoj se peku sasvim posebne pizze, a povremeno i vrlo posebni pekarski proizvodi poput doissanta, spoja krafne i kroasana koji je oduševio posjetitelje u vrijeme karnevala te vrlo posebne sirnice, koje su im upravo u ponudi. Ne brinite, pitali smo ga recept.
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Ivan Marin, jer to mu je ime, otkrio nam je kako je došao na ideju otvoriti The Square Pizza Society, simpatičan objekt s pizzama koje neodoljivo podsjećaju na one što ih neki nazivaju "bakinim pizzama", a riječ je o pizzama kakve su nam nekoć pekle bake - u pravokutnim roštijerama, s debelim tijestom. Samo, ove su, kako smo već spomenuli, od sourdough tijesta pa bi ih možda bilo bolje nazvati prabakinim pizzama...
Kako nam priča Ivan, nakon 13 godina rada u marketingu kao brand manager i direktor marketinga za neke od najpoznatijih svjetskih brendova pića, malo ga je štufala ta priča pa je odlučio krenuti u neku svoju, a kako obožava kuhati i zadnjih se osam godina amaterski bavi kruhom od kiselog tijesta, sasvim je logično da je novi put pronašao u gastronomiji i tako je nastao The Square Pizza Society. Malo ga bockamo pitanjem kako to da se u jeku ere napolitanskih pizza odlučio ponuditi debeljuškaste, bakine pizze, a Ivan nam uzvraća da je njihova pizza zapravo kombinacija različitih utjecaja i načina pripreme.
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- Supruga i ja smo veliki ljubitelji pizze pa nam je obavezni dio svakog zajedničkog putovanja bio isprobavanje najbolje pizze u mjestu koje smo posjetili. Nakon što smo skupili inspiraciju, uzeli ono što nam se najviše svidjelo od različitih stilova. Naša pizza najsličnija je Detroit style pizzi, jer ima deblje tijesto i sir joj prekriva cijelu površinu pa se stvara jako ukusan zapečeni rub, ali je radimo sa sourdough tijestom tako da je puno zdravija i ukusnija. Karakteristike tog stila koje nam se nisu svidjele, kao na primjer pravilo da umak od rajčice ide na vrh gomile sastojaka, nismo uvažili pa nam je po tom pitanju bliža klasična talijanska pizza sa sastojcima poput pršuta San Daniele ili sireva poput Pecorina i Stracciatelle - precizan je Ivan Marin.
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Pitamo ga zašto mu se sviđa baš kiselo tijesto i priprema li ga i kod kuće, na što nam odgovara da ga je sourdough zaintrigirao okusom i teksturom koje su kod pravilno fermentiranog tijesta neusporedivo bolji pa je u tu tematiku ušao dublje, kroz brojne tečajeve i istraživanje u kućnoj radinosti.
- Negdje sam pročitao da je budućnost kruha u njegovoj prošlosti i mislim da je to ključna poruka. Nekada se kruh radio od samo tri sastojka: brašna, vode i soli, a svakako bi spomenuo i vrijeme kao ključni sastojak. Ako danas pogledate deklaraciju industrijskog kruha pronaći ćete i do trideset sastojaka. Zbog industrijske proizvodnje kojoj je cilj u što manje vremena proizvesti što više proizvoda, u tijesto su dodaju razni aditivi kako bi se regulirao proces te na kraju imamo kruh koji je nutritivno bezvrijedan, ako ne i štetan.
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Najmanji je problem u pekarskom kvascu s kojim se također može napraviti jako dobar kruh ili pizza ako tijesto pravilno i dovoljno dugo odleži na hladnoj fermentaciji. Ljudi danas imaju problem jer se zbog uštede vremena u tijesto dodaje previše kvasca kako bi se proces ubrzao i tijesto se zapravo samo umjetno digne umjesto da pravilno fermentira. Time dobijemo tijesto koje nam teško padne i loše je probavljivo - objašnjava naš sugovornik pa ga pitamo kako uspješno napraviti sourdough pizzu.
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- Najbolji savjet koji sam dobio kada sam počeo peći je da odaberem jedan recept i napravim taj isti recept barem desetak puta. Jedino tako možete izučiti sam proces, kako tijesto izgleda i kako se ponaša u kojoj fazi, osjetiti ga pod prstima i stvarno razumjeti - savjetuje meštar za kiselo tijesto, a mi priču s pizze i kruha skrećemo na malo slađe staze pa ga pitamo o sourdough sirnicama.
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- Sirnice radimo po starom obiteljskom receptu koji dolazi još od moje prabake i prenosi se sa generacije na generaciju. Posebnost ovog recepta je što sirnice malo jače zarežemo i premažemo šatoom koji napravimo od žumanjaka, šećera i prošeka zbog čega budu malo niže, ali jako sočne i aromatične. Nekako dajemo prednost okusu ispred estetike. Radi se o naoko jednostavnom slatkom kruhu, ali postupak izrade baš i nije jednostavan jer zahtjeva vremena. Što je više puta zamijesite, bit će bolja.
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Koristimo samo najkvalitetnije sastojke: domaća jaja, puno maslaca, masti, ruma i Maraschina, burbon vanilin šećera te sok i koricu bioloških limuna i naranče za aromu. Sirnica voli masnoću, maslac i mast joj daju sočnost i produžuju njenu svježinu. Tijesto je potrebno duže mijesiti kako bi se dobro razvio gluten, a u tome će vam od velike pomoći biti mikser. Peče se na 170 stupnjeva i ne smije izvana previše potamniti. Ako za vrijeme pečenja počne previše hvatati boju lagano je prekrijte aluminijskom folijom - upućuje nas simpatični Splićanin i počinje diktirati recept...
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Sourdough sirnice
Sastojci (za tri sirnice od otprilike 400 g)
Kvas
40 g svježeg kvasca
1 žlica šećera
1 žlica brašna
100 ml mlakog mlijeka
Tijesto
500 g brašna za dizana tijesta
125 g maslaca
1 žlica svinjske masti
150 g šećera
2 bourbon vanilin šećera
1 žličica soli
4 žumanjka
1 cijelo jaje
korica 1 neprskanog limuna
korica 1 neprskane naranče
50 ml soka od naranče
2 velike žlice ruma
2 velike žlice maraschina
Šato
2 žumanjka
2 žlice šećera
2 žlice prošeka
Dodatno
granulirani šećer ili šećer u kocki za posipanje
Priprema:
Pomiješajte sastojke za kvas, mlijeko neka bude mlako. Ostavite ga da se diže na toplom mjestu dok se dobro ne zapjeni.
U zdjelu miksera stavite sve sastojke za tijesto osim maslaca i masti, dodajte uzdigli kvas pa miješajte spiralnim nastavkom za tijesto, najprije lagano samo da se poveže, zatim par minuta na većoj brzini dok se ne počne odvajati od rubova posude. Dodajte mast i nastavite miješati dok se ne sjedini. Polako dodajte maslac narezan na manje komadiće i mješajte dok se tijesto u potpunosti ne sjedini i počne odvajati od posude. Mora biti elastično, sjajno i ne previše ljepljivo.
Prebacite tijesto na radnu plohu i još malo mijesite rukama pa prekrijte posudom i ostavite petnaestak minuta da odmori. Još jednom premijesite i ostavite otprilike pola sata u pokrivenoj posudi na sobnoj temperaturi pa stavite u hladnjak na najmanje šest sati, idealno preko noći.
Izvadite tijesto iz hladnjaka i prebacite ga na radnu površinu te ga podijelite na tri jednaka dijela i oblikujte u kugle. Stavite ih na pleh na kojem ćete ih peći te ostavite na sobnoj temperaturi dok ne narastu za otprilike polovicu volumena.
Dok se sirnice dižu pripremite šato. dobro istucite žumanjke i šećer pjenjačom ili mikserom pa dodajte prošek i opet dobro promiješajte.
Zarežite sirnice škarama na tri dijela i u nastali procjep ulijte šatoa te cijelu sirnicu premažite šatoom. Pospite granuliranim šećerom ili kockama šećera koje ste prethodno usitnili na manje komadiće.
Pecite otprilike 35 minuta i provjerite drvenim štapićem ili čačkalicom jesu li gotove.
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17. svibanj 2024 05:37
